This happened to be my first stop at Julia's, at least in its present iteration. Lady Takahashi is a little too young to remember the place in its earlier, hoarier manifestations—and she's always been more a denizen of Chinatown than Capitol Hill, at any rate. But I have fond memories of that little sliver of real estate in its original form: Ernie Steele's, arguably the sleaziest dive in the history of this city—even at a time, back in the 70s and early 80s, when Seattle was nothing but a simmering welter of dives, strip joints, pool halls, low-rent brothels, and oceans of skittering rats. Before gentrification, you know. Before the fucking Californians invaded and drove the price of everything through the ceiling.
Ernie Steele's drew every reject from a Charles Bukowski or Bill Burroughs novel that you could possibly imagine. The house beer was Rainier: 50 cents a glass. If you didn't have the price of a schooner, you could swing by an AA meeting on your way to Ernie's and pick up an anniversary coin; one of those could always buy you a brew. Some of the harder-core alcoholics at Ernie's preferred Mad Dog or—if treading in high cotton—Wild Turkey. The jukebox featured Hank Williams, the Troggs, and Marianne Faithfull's whiskey-soaked voice. The cigarette smoke was so thick in Ernie's that you could barely see your drink, and a melange of odors running from piss to vomit permeated the joint.
Now, the place is a moderately upscale Eurotrash eatery. Not a bad place, but it's no Ernie Steele's. Nothing of the old establishment remains; even the ghosts have fled. While I enjoyed my burger, I nevertheless found myself pining for Ernie Steele's. You can't make dives like that; they can only evolve of their own accord, and once they're gone... well, there's no reclaiming them. Seattle, in general, was a sassier city in those days, embracing its sin and corruption like a cherished lover, and Ernie Steele's was king.


